Planning your trip around Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry

Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry is a vast place – more than 50,000 square miles, and is very rich and diverse in its natural beauty, art, culture, spoken language, food etc… In terms of natural beauty, Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry have so much to offer – from the miles & miles of beach and vibrant ocean, to Vedanthangal bird sanctuary in India where more than 40,000 birds visit every migratory season, to Pichavaram – the world’s second largest mangrove forest, to the southern tip of India – Cape Comorin, to the Mudumalai wild life sanctuary, and to the hill stations of Ooty and Yercarud, there is a lot to see and enjoy. It is no surprise that Tamil Nadu is the top tourist destination for India Domestic tourists and 6th top tourist destination for Foreign tourists (source: Ministry of Tourism, India).

In terms of its people, Humans have inhabited this part of the world for several millennia, and have played a consequential role in developing Language, Art, Commerce, Culture etc…, over the centuries. From the Chola King who built a dam in a raging river over 2000 years back that’s still functional today, to the mighty contributions of the Chola, Pandya and Pallava empires in building massive structures over 1000 years back such as the Thanjavur Big Temple that still stand majestically which make you wonder “How did they manage to do this?”, to the more recent ancestors such as the Mahakavi (Great Poet) Bharathiyar – who has helped make the world a more equal and equitable place, to the more contemporary ancestor the People’s President and Scientific Genius APJ Abdul Kalam – Tamil Nadu and its best people have undoubtedly lived lives of consequence during their own time, but their contributions have also endured several decades or centuries after their passing.

To me, this was very much inspiring and why I decided to travel around Tamil Nadu myself. More on this in the blog section of this website.

The mission for this website is to inspire more people around India and the world to travel to Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry. I also know a lot of people who are inspired and eager to travel and experience all that Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry has to offer, but do not know where to start or do not have the time to plan their travel. I put together this website largely based on my own recent travel experience around Tamil Nadu & Pondicherry, to help people plan for their travel.

Below is a map of South India, focusing particularly on Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry, to help orient the reader on the itinerary plan that is to follow.

Planning

In general, the key elements to planning one’s travel is the availability of time and money at one’s disposal set aside for such travel. So, I am recommending 3 different itineraries for folks with varying levels of time availability.

Another key element to travel planning is deciding when to Travel. Tamil Nadu has a tropical climate and can get pretty hot. So, to get the most out of your travel and not worry about the heat, I’d recommend traveling to Tamil Nadu & Pondicherry during the winter – between September and March; albeit it might be good to avoid travel during November due to risk of monsoon rains. But for those who can travel in summer only, I’d suggest overloading the itinerary with stay at the hill stations of Ooty, Kodaikanal and Yercaud.

Itinerary 1 – I wanna take my time and see everything that Tamil Nadu has to offer, and do so in a relaxed manner

Ok, so you got plenty of time. Here’s a 20-day itinerary around Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry. Work your way down the coast line, all the way down south to Kanyakumari, and then loop back up to cool off in Coimbatore and the hill station of Yercaud, and then head back to Chennai. Adding in some train travel into your journey, especially for some of the longer distances and overnight travel, will also further enrich your travel.

Itinerary 2 – I have 8-10 days at my disposal for traveling around Tamil Nadu, and simply want to cover the must see places, and do so in a relaxed manner

8-10 days won’t allow you to cover the entire breadth of Tamil Nadu. But you can absolutely, in a relaxed manner, enjoy the culture and beauty of Tamil Nadu. This itinerary will keep you mostly along the coast and also allow you enough time to take in the beauty of the Pallava, Chola and Pandya magnificent creations. Would recommend about 2 days at each of these places.

Itinerary 3 – I have only 4-6 days at my disposal. Let’s do a quick travel with a checklist of must see places.

You want a quick itinerary, you got it. Cover these 4 places – Mahabalipuram, Kumbakonam / Thanjavur, Karaikudi, Madurai and you will get a decent flavor, and hopefully that inspires you to come back to do a more detailed trip.


You got the big picture for your itinerary. Now, let’s get to the detail. Where do you stay? What is there to see? The detail below is put together with Itinerary 1 (see everything) in mind. Folks with lesser time can compact the itinerary as needed.

Day 1 – Arrive in Chennai

  • Arrive in Chennai. Drive to Mahabalipuram. Check in to Hotel and relax. Enjoy the resort.
  • Hotel Recommendation in Mahabalipuram: Radisson Blu Temple Bay (or) Chariot Beach Resort (or) Welcomhotel ITC

Day 2 – Mahabalipuram

  • Visit the Mahabalipuram group of monuments (UNESCO World Heritage Site) from the 7th / 8th century: Arjuna’s Penance, Krishna’s Butterball, Shore temple, Light house.
  • Paramotoring (if you are into adventure) at Kovalam Beach in the afternoon
    • Enjoy the breathtaking views of the coast line.
    • Weather dependent, on whether they allow to take off.
    • Paramotoring is available only in weekends.
    • https://www.fly2day.in/in/

Day 3 – Mahabalipuram

  • Kids in the party? Consider VGP Universal Kingdom theme park. There’s also a crocodile park in ECR
  • Go for a boating ride in Muttukadu
  • Don’t want to get out, chill out in the resort

Day 4 – Head to Pondicherry

  • Drive from Mahabalipuram to Pondicherry. Check in to your accommodation.
  • Stay recommendation in Pondicherry: Park Guest House (or) The Promenade (or) check out any of Auroville accommodations
  • Take an evening stroll along the Rock beach
  • When in Pondicherry, try to rent a scooter. It’s about Rs. 300/day – it will be well worth it. Pondicherry is a small city, and once you get a hang of the road system, its very easy to get around. Good place to be a local for a couple of days, and the scooter helps.
Pondicherry, Rock Beach. View from Park guest house.

Day 5 – Pondicherry

  • Sri Aurobindo Ashram + Mahakavi Barathiyar Memorial Center + Pondicherry Museum in the morning.
  • Checkout the Paradise Beach in the afternoon / evening.

Day 6 – Pondicherry

Pondicherry, Bike Tour, Sita Cultural Center.

Day 7 – Pondicherry

  • Auroville, checkout Matri Mandir, especially the Inner chamber (requires advance booking).
  • Pichavaram Mangrove Forest boating in the afternoon
    • Pichavaram Mangrove Forest is the second largest in the world, only behind the Sundarbans in the West Bengal
    • Pichavaram is about a 2 hour drive from Pondicherry, the boating closes at 4 PM; so plan accordingly
    • There are 2 options – either a motor boat, or a row boat.
Pondicherry, Auroville, Matri Mandir.

Day 8 – Kumbakonam

  • Drive from Pondicherry to Kumbakonam.
  • Enroute to Kumbakonam, visit Gangaikonda Cholapuram – UNESCO World Heritage site.
  • Check in to Hotel
  • In the afternoon / evening, visit Airavatheswara Temple in Darasuram – also an UNESCO World Heritage site – built by King Raja Raja Chola II in 12th century (year 1166) CE
  • Hotel recommendations in Kumbakonam: Indeco Hotels Swamimalai (or) Mantra Koodam, by CGH Earth
  • Don’t forget to take a cup or two of famous Kumbakonam Filter Coffee
Gangai Konda Cholapuram, UNESCO World Heritage site, built around the year 1025 CE, by King Rajendra Chola I and served as the capital of Chola Empire for 256 years since then.

Day 9 – Kumbakonam / Thanjavur / Trichy

  • Visit Swami Malai temple, built in 2nd century BC
  • Visit world famous Math Genius Srinivasan Ramanujan’s Home, now converted to a museum
  • Visit Sarangapani Temple, built in the year 1121 by King Vikrama Chola
  • Drive to Thanjavur (~1 hour drive from Kumbakonam)
  • Visit the world famous Big Temple a.k.a. Periya kovil.
    • The temple tower (aka Vimana) is at a height of 216 ft
    • The Kumbham (the bulb-like structure on the top) is a monolith rock that weighs around 80 tons. One can’t help but marvel the mechanics and hard work involved with getting such a rock on top of such a high tower using the tools that were available over 1000 years back.
  • Visit Kallanai dam (aka Grand Anicut), which was conceived and built by the Chola King Karikala in the year 150 CE. It is apparently the fourth oldest water regulation structure in the world and the oldest in India, that is still in use.
    • Right next to the dam, there is also a Karikala Cholan Manimandapam (monument) – which details the life of King Karikalan.
  • Drive to Trichy (30 min drive from Grand Anicut). Check in to Hotel in Trichy
  • Hotel recommendation in Trichy: SRM Hotel (Race Course Road)
Big Temple a.k.a. Thanjavur Periya kovil a.k.a. Brihadeesvara Temple, UNESCO Heritage site, built / commissioned by the Great Chola King Raja Raja Cholan I in the year 1010 CE

Day 10 – Trichy / Karaikudi

  • Rockfort – one of the oldest rock formations in the world, about 3.8 Billion years old.
    • There is a Uchi Pillayar Temple and Thaayumanavar Swami Temple on top of the hill
    • In the bottom of the hill, there is a cave dug / sculpted by the Pallavas in the 7th century. Ask for the “Lower Caves”
  • Drive to Karaikudi.
  • Stay at recommendation in Karaikudi: Hotel Chidamabara Vilas (or) Visalam, CGH Earth.
  • Karaikudi / Chettinaad is famous for its spicy and yummy food. Don’t miss the chance to try out Idiyappam, Biryani or many of the other Chettinaad cuisine specials.
Rock Cut cave temple (“Lower Caves”) at the bottom of the Rockfort, by Pallavas during the 7th Century CE.

Day 11 – Karaikudi

  • Thirumayam fort (very close if you are staying in Chidambara Vilas Hotel)
  • Athangudi Palace visit
  • Athangudi Tile factory (cottage industry / kudisai thozhil) visit: Athangudi is world famous for Tile designing and there are plenty of small scale/cottage industry (kudisai thozhil) setups. Right opposite Athangudi palace you will see one such shop – if you give them a little tip, they will show you in live action the painstaking process of getting the design right on one tile. How they achieve that same design fidelity in tile after tile is unbelievable to watch.
  • Kaanaadu Kaathan Aranmanai (Chettinaad Palace) – massive house / palace. Unless you have prior permission, they don’t let you inside.
  • Aayiram Jannal Veedu (Thousand Window House) – when I went they didn’t allow any visitors to the inside
  • Sivaganga Velunaachiyar Palace
  • Hotel New President, not upscale by any stretch, is a good place to try out some authentic Karaikudi/ Chettinaad cuisine (go preferably for dinner)

Karaikudi Athangudi Palace, ceiling with intricate design on the central hall

Day 11 – Piran Malai Trek (not for everybody) and Head to Madurai

  • Drive to Piran Malai (about 1-1.5 hour drive)
  • Trek up the Piran Malai Hills.
    • Try to start the trek at or about 7.30 AM so that you can complete the round drip before the sun starts to beat down
    • Paari, a king known for his generosity, ruled the Parambu Kingdom (Parambu Naadu) that consisted of about 300 surrounding villages from these hills about 2000 years back
    • Super steep trek up the hills. Just for reference, I kept a steady pace throughout and I am of average fitness, and it took me 2.5 hrs up hill and 1.5 hrs downhill.
    • Carry a 1L bottle of water, and of course carry a proper hiking / trekking shoes. When the bottle empties out (and it will), do not just throw it there. Bring it back with you and put in a trash.
    • Breathtaking views along the way – so stop every once in a while, take in the views and let your heart get back to green zone. Can’t stress enough – pace yourself.
    • Check out other Piran malai photos in the gallery below to get a sense of what the path looks like
    • On top of the hills, there is a Dargah and a murugan temple, and plenty of breathtaking views.
  • Continue on to Madurai (another ~1.5 hour drive)
  • In the evening, check out the Tirumalai Nayakar Mahal. Go before 5 PM to check out the museum first. There is also a sound & light show that starts after dark.
  • Hotel recommendation in Madurai: Heritage Madurai
Piran Malai, elevation of over 2500 feet.

Day 12 – Madurai

  • Visit the World famous Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple, built by a Pandya King over 800 years back.
  • Visit Azhagar temple (pronounced Alagar, for non-tamil speakers) and Pazha Mudhir Cholai (pronounced Pala Mudhir Cholai – fruit garden)
  • Try out the Jigarthanda (cold beverage) while in Madurai

Day 13 – Madurai / Keeladi / Rameswaram

  • Drive from Madurai to Rameswaram
  • Enroute to Rameswaram, visit Keezhadi (pronounced Keeladi, for non-tamil speakers) Museum and Keezhadi Excavation site. Excavated remains show human settlement in this region in 6th century BC.
  • Visit the People’s President APJ Abdul Kalam’s Home (which is now converted into a museum) and Memorial in Rameswaram. President APJ Abdul Kalam was the scientific brains and the public face behind India’s nuclear program. It’s a humbling experience to be in the home where he lived as well as being in his memorial.
  • Visit Dhanushkodi, a town now abandoned after the deadly 1964 Rameswaram cyclone, and drive down the road to Arichalmunai (closest point to Sri Lanka – only 24 Km / 15 miles from here). Drop down the windows and enjoy the breeze of the Bay of Bengal to your left and the Indian Ocean to the right.
  • Get a sunset view at the Pamban bridge – India’s first sea-bridge, about 2.3 Km (1.43 Miles) long, connects the island of Rameswaram to the mainland
  • If you are continuing on to Kanyakumari, I would recommend taking the overnight train from Rameswaram to Kanyakumari – a) gives you a place to stay for the overnight after a long day, b) train expected to reach Kanyakumari to 4.15 AM, just in time for you to drop your bags off at the hotel and take in a breathtaking Sunrise view, and c) avoid a 300 Km (185 miles) drive, which in my opinion will be more tiring and could seem wasteful of valuable time/money.
  • Train 22621 operates a Ramanathapuram to Kanyakumari service, but its only on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Departs 9.55 AM and arrives at 4.15 AM
  • Retire for the night in a cozy 1st AC coupe or 2nd AC berth
Keezhadi Excavation site, showing a mature civilization dating back to 6th Century BCE
Dhanushkodi, road to Arichalmunai – Bay of Bengal on the left side and Indian Ocean to the right side of the road

Day 14 – Kanyakumari

Kanyakumari is at the southern tip of India, and provides for panoramic 270 degrees views of the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea.

  • If you took my advice, and took the train, you will reach Kanyakumari well rested at about 4.15-4.30 AM
  • Make sure you have booked a room for check in at about 5 AM. Drop your bags and refresh quickly, and then head out immediately for the sun rise view.
  • Sunrise View – Depending on the time of year, the Sun rise at Kanyakumari will be between 6 to 6.30 AM
  • Take the ferry ride to see the Thiruvalluvar Statue and the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, Ferry service starts at 8AM
  • Vattakottai Fort – about 20-30 min drive from the hotel. Nice 18th century fort and a relaxing beach
  • Sunset view – The best part about Kanyakumari is that being at the Cape (tip), the best vantage points for viewing the Sun rise and the Sunset are less than a kilometer away of each other. So, don’t forget to cap of your day with a Sunset view
  • Hotel recommendation in Kanyakumari: Annai Resorts & Spa
Kanyakumari, Cape Comorin – southern most tip of India. Tiruvalluvar Statue with Vivekananda Rock Memorial in the background.
Kanyakumari, Sunset view

Day 15 – Tirunelveli

Kanyakumari to Tirunelveli, point-to-point drive is only about a 80 Km drive. The itinerary below takes a little circuitous route (about 325 Km), and would take almost an entire day to cover including the time spent sight seeing. Point being, start the day early. These are the items you could plan to cover during the day long trip:

  • Agasthiyar Falls
  • Courtallam Falls – inquire about water flow levels to avoid disappointment, especially in the summer months
  • Visit Ettayapuram – Mahakavi Bharathiyar Home and Memorial.
    • This was the place where the great poet was born and raised, and earned his title Barathi at the age of 11
    • He was a liberal force of nature, fighting for Women’s rights, and fighting against norms of that time including Child marriage, Untouchability and Casteism. He was a thorn in the side of the British and their unjust policies.
    • He died in the year 1921 at a very young age of 38, and 102 years after his passing his poems reverberate even now and has a huge fan following
  • Visit Ettayapuram Palace
  • Visit Kattabomman Memorial, Kayatharu –
    • Veerapandiya Kattabomman was a brave king who spoke up against the British East India Company’s rule and their unfair policies
    • He was eventually caught and put under a farce trial
    • As an outcome of this trial, he was hung to death at this very place, Kayatharu near Tirunelveli – in the year 1799, also at a very young age of 39
  • Visit Nellaiappar Temple – built in the 7th Century
    • Right outside the Nellaiappar Temple, you will find the world famous Iruttu Kadai Halwa Shop. If you go to Tirunelveli, you got to have the Iruttu Kadai Halwa and take a packet (or two or three) of the delicious Halwa to your dear ones back home
  • If you are keeping to this itinerary, your next stop is Coimbatore which is 350+ Km (220+ miles) from Tirunelveli. I recommend to make this overnight journey by train, which will allow you to get a good night’s rest after a long day in the car. So, after dinner, get off at the Tirunelveli junction and bid adieu to your car.
  • Make sure to have booked yourself into a nice 1st Class Coupe or 2nd AC in the Train 22667 – NCJ CBE Express. Train ETD 11 PM.
Tirunelveli, Agasthiyar falls
Actor Sivaji playing Kattabomman in the movie Veerapandiya Kattabomman, explaining rather fiercely why his kingdom won’t pay taxes to the British

Day 16 – Good morning, Coimbatore

  • The train from Tirunelveli should arrive at Coimbatore at 7.15 AM
  • After refreshing at your place of stay, make your way to the main premises where you can see the huge 112 Ft Adi Yogi statue, Suryakund, Linga Bhairavi and the Dhyanalinga. The calm ambience would allow one to relax and unwind, and enjoy the natural surroundings.
  • In the evening, at about 7 PM, there is a magnificent laser light show (about 15-20 mins long) illuminating the Adiyogi statue which is well worth the wait.
  • There is a restaurant right at the entry of the premises which serves very nice breakfast / lunch / dinner (closes at 9 PM)
  • Stay recommendation – Isha Yoga Center guest house. If you wish to stay at the Isha Yoga Center, make sure to pre-book one of the guest houses. You can also feel free to stay in Coimbatore city, and simply make a day trip to Isha. Recommend Taj Vivanta, if you simply wish to stay in Coimbatore.
Coimbatore, Isha Yoga Center, Adiyogi Statue. 112 Feet tall statue of the Adiyogi flanked by the Vellingiri hills on the 3 sides.

If you are into the tranquility that the Isha Yoga Center provides and you have the time, perhaps you might want to extend this to another day.

Day 17 – Yercaud

Yercaud is a hill station about 195 Km (120 miles) east of Coimbatore. After a long winded trip, Yercaud will be the perfect place to wind down and just chill – literally. Saying that, the best time to travel to Yercaud is between like March to September; and if you are traveling during the winter months (Nov-Feb), I would suggest to cut this portion off your itinerary and perhaps add these days to one of the coastal places (Mahabalipuram or Pondicherry).

  • Head from Coimbatore to Yercaud (4 hour drive)
  • Check into your hotel, and relax.
  • Hotel recommendation: La Four Seasons (or) Sterling Resort (or) GRT Great Trails

Day 18 – Yercaud

  • Boating in the Yercaud lake
  • If you are looking for some adventure activities, you can do the Zip line and/or ATV here
  • Go on a Coffee plantation tour (if you are staying at Sterling resort, you can ask them for more info on this

Day 19 – Hogenakkal

Hogenakkal, about 120 Km (75 miles) from Yercaud, is the point where the river cauvery makes its way into Tamil Nadu (from our neighboring state Karnataka). Hogenakkal Falls is the best water falls I have seen in all of Tamil Nadu.

  • Leave early from Yercaud. Drive to Hogenakkal (about 3 hour drive)
  • Enjoy the gushing river and falls, and take in the views while walking on the Hanging Bridge
  • Take the boat / coracle (parisal) ride (closes at 5 PM). The boat ride would last roughly 1 to 1.5 hours. If you tip the boat rower a little extra, he will take you some more distance than normally covered on the ticket.
  • Full body oil massages are very popular near the falls, and I found it very relaxing myself. Would recommend.
  • Once you are done at Hogenakkal, then it’s time to complete the loop and head back where you started: Chennai. Chennai is about a 6 hour drive (about 350 Km, 217 miles) from Hogenakkal.
    • Plan on visiting Kancheepuram Kailasanathar Temple constructed in the year 700 CE by a Pallava King
  • If you didn’t want to take car for the entire distance, you could take the car up to Salem; and from Salem, there is a Shatabdhi Super Fast Express Train (#12244, ETD Salem 5.25 PM and arrives at Chennai about 10 PM. Book yourself into Executive Class for a relaxed comfort ride.)
  • Hotel recommendation in Chennai: Le Royal Meridien, ITC Grand Chola, Hilton.
Hogenakkal Falls – point where the Cauvery river enters Tamil Nadu.

Day 20 – Chennai

  • Besant Nagar Elliott’s beach, for a nice sunrise (trust me, doesn’t get old) view
  • Mylapore Kapaleeshwarar Temple – built in the 7th century
  • If there’s a cricket match (ICC, IPL or Ranji, doesn’t matter), go see a game of cricket with the “knowledgeable Chennai crowd” in the MA Chidambaram Cricket Stadium a.k.a. Chepauk. Even if there’s no game going on, just go check out the awesome ground as a visitor
  • Do some last minute shopping at the street shops of Pondy Bazaar and/or Express Avenue mall
MAC / Chepauk Cricket Ground, with Marina beach in the background

Some photos from my own trip in the below gallery:

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